John Henry Bikes - Learn

ESC Adventures Youth Bike Camp August Specials

2009-08-12T21:17:00.000-07:00

ESC Adventures Youth Camps are rolling along for August and right up until school starts.

And they are also having a summer special on the remaining August camps.
Check it out here and throw your kids into a camp so you can get some well deserved rest!

DATES:
August 17-21, August 24-28 and August 31-September 4

PRICES:

Little Rippers reg. $210 NOW $180
Extreme Riders reg. $260 NOW $225
Adventure Camp reg. $300 NOW $260 [August 24-28 only]
Drop in single days available too! Little Rippers: $40 and Extreme Riders: $50

2009-07-01T17:13:00.000-07:00

Proper Bike Fit [as seen in Impact Magazine] by Willie Henry
Bike Fit 101

Let's make one thing very clear. If you ride regularly whether as a serious cyclist, a triathlete or an avid recreational user, proper bicycle fit is extremely important. There are a million very technical reasons for this statement but only one overriding reason that you need to understand. Without a proper bicycle fit you are at risk of injury and with that comes time away from your bike and the outdoors.

This article will attempt to help you make the key fit adjustments right at home so your riding season is started off the right way. With a little bit of playing around you can eliminate some of the guess work and take some real quality fit tips of master fitters and look at your set up for what it really is. The mechanism to make you more efficient and the most comfortable you can be. These are rules that can help get you closer to where you should be on your bike but by no means are these tips everything under the sun. Bicycle fitting is a large dash of scientific research mixed with a total understanding of that individuals physiology. Who better to know oneself than you? Let's get started with Bike Fit 101.

Basic Cycling Body Position
Saddle Position

Level: It is usually not a good idea to mount your saddle with the nose of it pointing either down or up more than a couple of degrees. Doing so can cause arm fatigue and/or an increase in the chances of finger numbness. As you resist the tendency to slide forward you are also more prone to locking out your elbows, hunching your shoulders and therefore are engaging muscles that should be loose and relaxed. This leads to early fatigue on rides.

Solution: To start with the correct saddle tilt use a 'level' [a tool that helps one put up shelves or correctly tell whether or not something is imbalanced] to correctly assess your saddle position. Make sure to position the level across the saddle starting from the tip and finishing at the back of the saddle. Use your allen keys to move the saddle into a balanced position.<

Height: Saddle height is a basic set up step that is widely misunderstood and more often than not poorly assessed. Known as the distance from the top of the saddle to the pedal axle when the crank arm is in the line with the seat tube, improper saddle height often is the start of poor positioning causing discomfort in many areas. Getting your saddle height positioned and then marked is generally a sure fire way to eliminate a high percentage of knee problems, lower back problems or neck aches related to riding.

Solution: While these suggestions are not exact science they should help a great majority of the riding population from gross height miscalculations. Once you are very close to your exact saddle position then you can make small adjustments during rides to customize your fit.
1. With your bare feet six inches apart, hold a tape measure firmly into your groin and measure to the floor. Have a friend help you so you are exact. Now multiply this number by 1.09 and then use the result to set the saddle height. Remember the measurement is directly along the seat tube of the bicycle and measured from the centre of the pedal axel to the top of a level saddle.
2. You can also pedal backwards, using just your heels. While it will feel awkward you can then begin to move your saddle up or down according to where your hips begin to rock and your feet start to pull away from the pedals. Position the saddle directly below the point where your hips begin to roll side to side.

Forward and Backwards: Fore and aft location of your saddle can make a big difference to how you feel within the cockpit of your bicycle. It has never been proven that moving your level saddle backwards or forward can cause damage to your body but it can significantly affect how you use your muscles and how you feel on your bike. If, like a triathlete, you move the saddle forward dramatically, you will use more quadriceps muscle and also make it easier to get into your aero bars helping you become more aerodynamic. If you have very long arms or are longer in the torso you may want to shift your saddle backwards on its rails allowing yourself to sit more happily within the cockpit of the bicycle. For most of us a nice middle position on the rails is a great starting point and from there we can make an assessment of how the fit from axle to knee and knee to saddle position is working. Remember: a person's overall flexibility makes a huge difference in their bicycle fit. If you are inflexible position yourself more upright so you maintain some comfort.

Adjustments: Follow these steps to set your fore/aft position on your saddle:

Locate your right leg's tibial tuberosity; the bony bump below the kneecap. This conveniently lies on a vertical line that passes through the centre of the knee joint when the crankarm is directly forward. This line should also bisect the pedal axle. Next,
With the bike mounted on your spinner [without the bike being tilted - back wheel and front wheel are equal distance off the ground!] turn the right crankarm to 3 o'clock. It is a good idea to pedal about twenty full revolutions comfortably before you stop in this position. This allows the hips to settle and you to sit as you would normally during your rides. Now drop a plumb line [a yo-yo operates as a great make shift plumb line] from the front of your tibial tuberosity.
Notice where the string passes the pedal axle and then slide your saddle forward or backwards until the string and axle line up. Now you are positioned in the most basic position and can begin to make comfort adjustments knowing you will not be hurting yourself.

Notes:

These are not hard and rigid rules but they will help you ascertain your basic position on your bike.

Remember that during the winter riders are more commonly wearing more layers and the added millimeters of padding can adversely affect the work you have done to get the position correct. Make adjustments as the seasons change.

Always use the same shoes for your fitting that you would be wearing during rides as the difference between one pair of shoes to the next can be dramatic and throw off calculations.

Different styles of cycling can have minor differences in how the fitting of your bike should be. Be sure to engage a professional if you are working within a specific discipline that may require adjustment. Triathletes are an example of a style or discipline within cycling that could require some adjustments.

Saddle position is merely one thing that can assess whether or not you are comfortable on your bicycle but it is definitely one of the most common causes of injury when it comes to riding problems. Follow the above principles to help you put your legs and hips in the correct position on your bike. Follow the below tips to more accurately assess your comfort.

Saddle Comfort:

Beyond putting your saddle in the correct position there are a few ways that you can make sure your sit bones aren't being bruised so badly that you would rather never see your bicycle again. Here are some comfort tips that may make the next ride a little bit more pleasurable.
Sit Bones: The myth that the size of a person relates to the width of their saddle has been widely spread and is actually akin to judging a book by its cover. While choosing a saddle merely by body type will likely conclude in some success with the rider that rarely sits on their saddle it is an absolute fallacy that the bigger you are the bigger your saddle need be. For one to choose a saddle that promotes a healthy crotch area you need to know the distance between your sit bones. Your size weight and height do not determine this distance. Your saddle needs to be the type that will allow your sit bones to neither be falling off the edges nor be compressed by the rounded area towards the centre line of the saddle. Paying close attention to where your sit bones are touching your seat as you are riding can help you determine if you need a different model. Once determined go wider or thinner as necessary. This makes your saddle more appropriate for you and then you can assess the actual comfort of the areas you are touching. Some dense foam or gel will conform to you and hopefully allow you to rid yourself of the bruised feeling that is common with casual riders. Saddle come in all shapes and sizes as well as in women's or men's models so choose one that works for you and never settle because something exists that can help.
Numbness: If you are going numb it is best to consult your doctor and then to consult a professional fit guide at the shop. Immediately!
Chamois is King: Make sure you are using a proper riding short. They come with many different forms of chamois to fit both women and men differently. Synthetic chamois is widely available and will help keep proper blood flow, reduce moisture through wicking properties and also provide padding in the correct areas.
Ride: The more riding you do the better it is as your body becomes used to the work out. However, don't ride through injuries or numbness. Get the problem solved now so that you can have the wind blowing through your hair on a hot day in the spring.

Never settle for being uncomfortable on your bicycle because it is almost always possible to correct the factor leading to your particular problem. A comfortable bicycle is a bike that will be used more often. Make sure that you take the time to set your saddle position so you will reap the rewards of a more efficient, stronger, more relaxed, more comfortable and ultimately happier body.

If you feel you aren't positioned properly on your bike consult your local fit expert and remember their scientific approach and your direct feedback make for the 'proper fit'. Not everything is based on your measurements alone. Good luck and ride for life.

Live to Ride.

Willie Henry
John Henry Bikes
info@johnhenrybikes.com
ph: 604.986.5534.

Willie Cromack is part owner of the North shores, John Henry Bikes and has been fitting people for over 16 years.

The Benefits Behind the Bike Fit

2009-06-04T15:05:00.000-07:00

I am often queried on why I feel bike fit is the most important part of cycling.

My answer in short: The benefits to performance, comfort and so you can ride until the day your body gives up.

Bike fitting isn't a sales gimmick. It isn't another way for the shops to pull another dime out of your pocket and it isn't a joke. Bike fit is the single biggest ingredient to enhanced enjoyment and performance on the bike.

In 2009 the entire Tour de France team of Saxo Bank were re-fit by the very same expert that has trained the John Henry Bikes pro fitters. You would think bike fit might have been a part of these pros repertoire already but many of the riders were completely readjusted to be more comfortable and thus more powerful over the entire race.

You can read the whole article here:
Jan 15, 2009 A Perfect BG FIT: Specialized & Team Saxo Bank

In December of 2008, Specialized sent a crew to Denmark to introduce the Saxo Bank team to their new Body Geometry (BG) shoes. Carl Bird (Director of Equipment) and Dr. Andy Pruitt (Director of the Boulder Center for Sports Medicine and design consultant to Specialized) explained BG technology and did some preliminary fittings with several riders.

BG FIT Trip Report
Team Saxo Bank Training Camp
January 11-14, 2009

In December of 2008, Specialized sent a crew to Denmark to introduce the Saxo Bank team to their new Body Geometry (BG) shoes. Carl Bird (Director of Equipment) and Dr. Andy Pruitt (Director of the Boulder Center for Sports Medicine and design consultant to Specialized) explained BG technology and did some preliminary fittings with several riders.

The process went exceptionally well, and team riders and staff were quick to embrace BG. This early success led team owner, Bjarne Riis, to request that Specialized provide full BG FIT (Fit Integration Technology) services to his entire squad, with the aim of making every rider both faster and more comfortable on their bikes.

Specialized was honored. Riis is known to be very technically minded and exacting in his team’s bikes, equipment and training. For him to entrust his riders to our BG FIT recommendations demonstrated a tremendous amount of respect and, to our knowledge, is unprecedented in the sport.

Specialized sent a crew to the Saxo Bank training camp in Mallorca, Spain, to fit the dozen or so riders logging training miles in the comparatively mild Mediterranean climate. A fit studio with a full BG FIT DATA system (which utilizes video assessment tools) was assembled in a hotel conference room. Dr. Andy Pruitt and Scott Holz, Senior BG FIT instructor, performed the BG FIT assessments.

Several things about the experience really stood out:

Saxo Bank truly operates as a team and not just a bunch of guys riding together. Their loyalty, dedication, and mutual respect were clearly evident. This is often a mark of excellent leadership.
Every rider appeared to benefit from adjustments made during the BG FIT process. The feedback was very positive.
Some changes were relatively minor. Cancellara's position, for example, was already close to ideal, but improvements to his pedal stroke were made via his BG shoes.
Other riders practically had their position on the bike reinvented. Thanks to the expert eye of Andy Pruitt, Scott Holz, and the impartial observation of the BG FIT DATA cameras, Frank Schleck is now in a more comfortable AND efficient riding position.

About half of the Saxo Bank team riders - including Fabian Cancellara, Frank Schleck, Andy Schleck - were fit over the course of two days. The balance of the team will get the full BG FIT assessment at a training camp in early February, prior to the Tour of California.

Now you don't have to be a pro to want to have your bike fit. You just have to want to ride your bike. In fact, most people come to us after they have experienced problems. However, preventative medicine is probably a better way to think about fit. By looking at your body we can fit the bicycle to you rather than you fitting and adjusting to your bicycle.

Do you want to be more powerful without doing more work? Do you want to feel like your bicycle was made for you? How about ride longer without pain?

Take the time out and get a professional Body Geometry FIT. You will thank yourself later...at the finish line.

Live to ride.
Willie Cromack
info@johnhenrybikes.com
www.johnhenrybikes.com
Phone: 604-986-5534

p.s. There are currently 16 professional certified BG fitters in Canada and John Henry Bikes has 3 of them including the only woman certified in Canada [April our manager]. Please ask us for help if need any questions answered on making your bike fit better.

Road Magazine: Norco CRR 1 Road bike review

2009-05-13T22:07:00.000-07:00

We don't always post every review by a bike magazine but in this case we thought it was appropriate. Seeing as more and more of our local riders are adding a road bike to their quiver, many were asking what had happened to Team Symmetrics and the Norco bikes they were riding. Norco has re-launched its road program for 2009 & 1/2 and the bikes are pleasantly surprising.

Obviously the team at Norco spent some time with the aesthetic of the bikes and must have taken some of the opinions at large to heart. The bikes look amazing and like all Norco Performance Bikes they are very well valued and ride true. As a full line bike company from Canada competing with the likes of the big brands it is sometimes hard to get the media attention. When your most well known bikes are freeride North Shore bikes it can sometimes be impossible. However, the new rigs must be speaking to the true road riders because there is a quiet buzz building. First, the bikes are very good looking. Period. They look the part and like the brand is saying "take us seriously". For the rest, the design and spec is thoughtful and so far they seem to ride beautifully.

Not bad from a brand born in the heart of Freeride territory. Take a look at Road Magazines review and we'll update you on our thoughts as we see them and ride the bikes more.

2009Road_CRR1.pdf

You can also check out our newest rider from the Food Network, who decided the local flavour was right up his alley.

Sram Tech Videos Now Online

2009-03-27T18:11:00.000-07:00

Check out the latest technical service videos for SRAM, RockShox, Avid and Truvativ MTB products. There are twenty-three videos that range from proper SRAM chain sizing to RockShox Mission Control damper service.

The technical videos can be found on SRAM's Tech channel on YouTube.com at www.youtube.com/sramtech. The same videos can also be found in the SRAM Service section of SRAM.com here www.sram.com/en/sevice.

Each video features step by step tutorial covering service steps, the required tool, and proper safety equipment. These videos were filmed at the SRAM Technical University (STU) classroom facility in Colorado Springs, Colorado.

To list just a few, information can be found on SRAM trigger shifter cable change, RockShox Mission Control damper service, Avid hydraulic brake bleed procedure, and Truvativ bottom bracket & crank install.

Here is an example of the videos that can be found at the links listed above.

Sweet Norco Vixa Review

2009-03-27T17:42:00.000-07:00

I have to be honest - when I first laid my eyes on Norco's new women's specific Vixa freeride bike, I thought it looked a little soft. Mint green (Norco calls it Medical Green), gold pedals and gold chain reminded me of those fresh white sneakers you got as a kid and couldn't wait to jump into a mud puddle with. Once I sat on the Vixa and felt how well it fit my height and size (5'2), I warmed up to the design and looked beyond the aesthetics.

The 152mm / 6" travel Vixa was designed by Norco team rider Darcy Turenne as a light freeride bike or heavier all-mountain bike specifically for women. That means lighter tubing, smaller frame sizing and a shorter top tube than you'd find on the men's version, along with woman's colors, component selection and detailing.

The Vixa is available in Xtra Small, Small and Medium. I opted for the small frame and found the set up compatible with my stature. I could tell immediately that this bike was going to be extremely maneuverable on the North Shore trails that are full of skinnies and tight technical sections that often leave big DH rigs a bit out of sorts. I could also tell that on the steep sections that are often encountered (where you are close to hitting straight vert) that I would need to work this bike.... no big bike picking up the slack, oh no... look alive Aimee, look alive.

Check out the rest of the article on NSMB by clicking here.

Local Ripper Bike Review: Jerry Willows SX Trail

2009-03-24T12:53:00.000-07:00

Jerry Willows, North Shore local, nsmb.com Team rider and all around great John Henry Bikes bro stops by the shop to talk about his 2009 Specialized SX Trail.

Jerry goes into detail about some of the features of the bike, his ideas of bike set up and some of the parts he appreciates when he is out and about the North Shore.

Jerry Willows Part 1

Jerry Willows Part 2

Thanks Jerry and if you have some thoughts on he is talking about let us know.

Live to ride.

Tire Article: by JH Racer Tim Coleman

2009-03-22T18:13:00.000-07:00

Note: this has been completely ripped off from www.timcoleman.ca. Like completely ripped off. But he is a John Henry Bikes DH Racer and we hook him up so I don't feel bad. And we suggest you go to his website to see his cool stuff...www.timcoleman.ca. Thanks Timmy...article is pretty good!

A Tire Tech Article

I think tires are super important for both racing and riding around on your local trails, so I decided the write my first tech article on tires and tire selection. I try my best to get the most out of my tires and try to use the best tire for the conditions. I see so many posts on the local forums with people asking "What tire should I use?". And what about all those racers showing up to races with worn out tires that aren't intended for the course conditions. Hopefully what I've learned over the last couple years could be of some use to you.

So lets get started. I personally think there are three important factors for tires:

1. Tire Condition
2. Tire Selection
3. Tire Pressure

1. Tire Condition
Make sure you have tires that are in good condition when you go racing. The tire is the only thing in contact with the ground. Good new tires have sharp edges, taller knobs, and will give more grip than worn out tires. More grip means you can corner harder, brake later, and carry more speed through difficult technical sections. Look at the comparison of the two tires below:

A new and worn out 2.5" Kenda Nevegal
The problem with the tire on the right is that even though it still has a significant amount of meat left in the knob the sharp edges have been rounded off due to braking and cornering. The sharp edges generate a ton of grip, and with out these edges the tire will never perform as well as it did when it was new. Having new tires on your bike will improve your times at the races.

But I can't afford a new set of tires for every race you say. I've heard that comment a thousand times. This is my trick. Decide to buy one or two sets of race tires. If you're going to buy one set get a tire that is going to perform well in all conditions. Buying 2 sets of tires is better. A set for the dry and a set for the wet. See the tire selection section below for my opinions on what tires to use in a variety of conditions. Put these good tires on your bike on Saturday morning, practice and race on these tires, then pull them off Sunday night and save them for the next race. When your race tires wear out, and are no longer good enough for racing, use them for practice tires. Do all your riding and training on old worn out tires. Yes its a pain to constantly switch the tires on your bike, but this way you'll always have good tires come race day, and without having to spend a ton of money on new tires all the time.

Another tip. You love those 3C Maxxis Minion tires, but they're $90 each in the store, and you can never find them on a good deal. Try out some slightly cheaper tires. Kenda Tires offer all the performance of the Maxxis or Michelin tires, at a fraction of the price at $65 a tire, and last longer. You can get 3 Kenda tires for the price of 2 Maxxis or Michelin tires, which means more race tires. If you're dead set that the Maxxis or Michelin tire makes you faster on the race course, keep them as a race tire, and do your practice and training on the cheaper Kenda Tires. The money you save by buying the cheaper tires for the off season may mean you have some extra cash for another set of race tires you love for next season.

2. Tire Selection
No single tire is ideal for all conditions, this is obvious. What isn't so obvious, is which tire is best suited to the current conditions. For this reason I'm going to split this section into a couple sections based on course conditions:
A. Hardpack Courses
B. Loose over Hardpack Courses
C. Wet Courses
D. Muddy Courses

2A. Hardpack Courses
For a hardpack course you're going to want a tire that rolls well since rolling speed is likely going to help. You want the tire to have a large ramped center knob that will create a large contact area with the ground, with a ramp to reduce rolling resistance. Tall skinny knobs down the center and on the sides are going to squirm because they can't penetrate the surface, will create significant rolling resistance, and won't offer much grip. In short you want a tire with lots of contact area and with short, stable center and side knobs. This combination will give the least rolling resistance, good grip, and the most predictable handling on hardpack conditions. My personal favorite tire for these conditions is the Stick-E Kenda Nevegal, 2.5" for the front and 2.35" for the rear. I like this 2.5" / 2.35" combination because the larger front tire offers better braking and cornering grip, but the rear tire has less rolling resistance. I like the Nevegal because it has great short, ramped knobs down the center that are large and blocky, with the side knobs being similar in design. The tire is predictable, stable and rolls fast. A good choice from the Maxxis line would be the 3C Minion DHF, and a good Michelin tire is the Comp 24.

From Left to Right. Kenda Nevegal, Maxxis Minion DHF and Michelin Comp 24. All great tires for hardpack conditions.

2B. Loose over Hardpack Courses
Loose over hardpack is generally any type of loose material on top of a hard packed in surface. This generally takes the form of sand, loam or gravel. These surfaces are tricky because the sections of the course that are soft and loose material is found are the sections where you need the most grip (because thats where everyone is cornering and braking). Where you don't need the grip the course is generally hard packed. You could use one of the hard pack tires I recommended in 2A, but since they all have short large blocky knobs, they don't penetrate into that soft loose material very well, and don't provide a great amount of traction. The ideal tire is something that has a deep but large and blocky knob that is stable, yet tall enough to generate grip in that loose stuff. There is really only tire I like for these conditions and its the Kenda Excavator. Both the 2.5" and the 2.35" Stick-E versions are excellent. Both have the same size knobs, with the only difference being a slightly smaller casing for the 2.35" and the center knobs on the 2.35" are significantly shorter than those on the 2.5". I've run the 2.5" Excavator on the front and the 2.35" Excavator on the rear on courses where have low rolling resistance is important but need both braking and cornering grip into and through some loose corners. Dual 2.35" Excavators would likely be a good choice for even lower rolling resistance if there isn't much heavy braking, and could also be a good setup for mostly hard pack conditions. The difference between the 2.5" and 2.35" Excavator can be seen below:

From Left to Right. Kenda Excavator 2.35". Kenda Excavator 2.5". Notice how the knobs are the same size in terms of area, but the knobs on the 2.35" are much shorter

2C. Wet Courses
I personally love riding and racing in the wet. I like it because I love how the tire reacts differently to roots, rocks, dirt and mud ... it's much more interesting than when things are dry. For wet conditions a tire needs to be able to penetrate the wet ground and generate grip. A large blocky knob like those found on the Nevegal and Minion won't penetrate the ground well, and are going to slip around on the roots. A good wet tire needs a fairly open tread to allow mud to clear, but enough small knobs to form around objects, penetrate the ground, and provide lots of edges for braking and cornering grip. However for most BC courses a spike tire isn't the ticket because of the large amount of rock of root require a knob that has good support. My default wet weather tire is the 2.4" Stick-E Kenda Telonix tire on the front and rear. The Telonix has a series of ramped, thin, but wide and sharp bars down the center for excellent braking grip, but with reasonable rolling resistance. These sharp bars are separated by a pair of side by side spikes that offer good lateral stability. The side knobs are a series of H-shaped knobs separated by a single spike. These side knobs offer good penetration but also have lots of edges that generate good cornering grip. My pick from Maxxis for wet conditions would be the 2.5" Super Tacky High Roller, and my pick from Michelin would be the 2.5" Comp 16. You can see obvious similarities between these three tires, which is why they all excel in wet conditions.

From Left to Right. Kenda 2.4" Telonix, Maxxis High Roller and Michelin Comp 16. All good aggressive tires for wet weather conditions.

2D. Muddy Courses
I have personally never used a mud spike tire before, so I can't offer up any opinions on which of the spike tires out there is the best. For severe mud conditions the wet weather tires I recommended in section 2C are likely going to clog up with mud, and won't have tall enough knobs to generate good levels of grip in deep mud. There are 4 really good mud tires on the market. The Kenda King of Traction, the Maxxis Wet Scream, the Maxxis Swamp Thing and the Michelin Mud 3. There has been a recent trend of cutting down Wet Screams and using them on wet or drying courses instead of using a Telonix or High Roller as well as on muddy courses. I can't say I've ever tried this, but it seems to be working for the World Cup guys, cutting tires is a science, and one I'll hopefully write more in a later tech article. The Swamp Thing is not as aggressive as the other three tires and fits between the High Roller and the Wet Scream, this is evident when you look at the pictures below. Unfortunately I couldn't find a good picture of the King of Traction as its was only just release in the fall of 2008. As a result I don't have a set yet, nor could I find any pictures online.

From Left to Right. Maxxis Wet Scream. Maxxis Swamp Thing. Michelin Mud 3. All very aggressive tires for muddy conditions.

3. Tire Pressure
Tire pressure is very important, and something you should play around with. Every good rider and racer should have a repeatable tire pressure gauge. This is important for being able to achieve repeatable tire pressures. For the record I'm 195 lb, so all tire pressures are for a rider of my weight. If you weigh less you'll likely run lower tire pressures, and if you weight more you'll likely run high tire pressures.

As a quick diversion I almost always use a regular 0.8 mm wall thickness cross country tube in the front, and a good medium weight 1.2 mm wall thickness free ride tube in the rear. I find this gives a good compromise between flat resistance and weight. For a smooth course I might use cross country tubes front and rear, and for a very aggressive course where I'm running low tire pressures for grip I might use a free ride tube in the front and rear.

For wet conditions you're generally going to want to run lower tire pressures to help the tire conform over everything on the trail, in order to help generate some much needed grip. In wet conditions rolling resistance likely isn't your first concern, so go ahead and lower those tire pressures. Don't change your tire pressures just before the race. Make sure you've worked out the ideal tire pressure long before practice is up in order to ensure you won't flat during the race. I personally use around 25 psig in the front and about 27 psig in the rear for wet courses. If I'm struggling for grip and can get away with the lower pressures I may lower than even further.

For dry conditions I generally use an intermediate tire pressure of 28 psig in the front and 32 psig in the rear. This offers a good compromise between rolling resistance, grip, and stability. In the dry you can corner harder, and you don't want the tire to be rolling around on top of the rim.

For hard pack conditions run high tire pressures. I generally use 32 psig in the front and 35 psig in the rear, sometimes even more at places like The Ranch in Kamloops. There is no need for low tire pressures in hard pack conditions. Running low tire pressures isn't going to give any more grip and you'll only gain stability in the corners and lower the rolling resistance with higher tire pressures. Since edges aren't a help in hard pack conditions anyway having more edges in contact with the ground isn't going to increase the amount of grip, so keep those tires nice and hard.

4. The End
That wraps up my first tech article on tires and tire pressures. I'll be posting up another tech article soon. Let me know if there is something in particular you'd like me to write about. If you have any questions, comments, if I've missed something, or you feel I'm just plain wrong, please leave a comment below.

Don't agree with Timmy or the John Henry Racers...tehn sound off and tell us what you think.
Email us and tell us your thoughts.

Live to ride.

The 2009 SX Trail

2009-03-18T15:34:00.000-07:00

After riding the 2009 SX Trail a couple times I thought it was time I shared how awesome this bike is. I rode a 2008 Demo 7 last season and loved it, so at first I was skeptical of the smaller travel SX Trail. Our relationship started off with the usual parking lot test ride including a couple bunny hops and manuals around and of course bouncing on the suspension. The bike felt like a short travel bike and didn't inspire a lot of confidence to rip down a mountain. Thankfully my first impression could not have been more wrong.

Usually when you hop on a new bike it will take a few rides to get used to how it handles, but within the first few pedal strokes I felt as I had been riding the bike for the whole last season. But the fun did not stop there, as i rode down the snow covered trails the bike went where ever it wanted to. Some might say I was speeding down the mountain out of control, however with the large amount of stand over the bike has to offer I felt that I could move the bike around anywhere. Best of all I felt in control while I was slipping and sliding down the trail. The next surprise came when I went off a jump and landed on a rocky flat landing, the bike was kind enough to absorb the impact and offer a feeling of endless travel. As we rode further into the forest the terrain became steeper and there was more woodwork incorporated into the trail. On the skinnies I felt in control and confident with my bike while I was riding. When the steep sections came up I was able to move my body to the perfect position to comfortably complete these lines. To end the ride was a faster section with lots of fast berms, the bike wanted to go faster and faster and corner lower and lower, this is a definite plus in my books.

Live to Ride

Who Nees A Bike Fit?

2009-03-17T13:06:00.000-07:00

If you want to get the most out of yourself and your bike you must, must, must get a proper fitting. Your efficiency will increase ten-fold as you become one with your bike. You are fit to your limitations, so any chronic or new injuries will be dealt with in your new riding position. Come back for your follow up and have us adjust your bike to your feedback. A good fit will benefit anyone with a goal, weather you are training for a triathlon or just want to shave some time off your daily commute.

Here's what to expect....

You will be assessed physically first and all data recorded. We do this through chatting to you about your past accomplishments, injuries and future goals. We will then have you jump on the massage table (no massages, sorry) and we will assess your flexibility etc through a series of tests. Once done, you will then be asked to ride your bike for a while in a trainer. Then the real fun begins as we adjust everything from your saddle height, saddle itself, cleat positions, bars, stem, insoles, and anything else you can think of.

Changes will all be recorded for you, as are the beginning measurements, so you have a copy for your records. We will also keep you on file for your follow-up and any future fits as you work your way to whatever your goal may be.

After taking the 3-day BG fit course at Specialized in Montreal and doing a handful of fits in-house, I am now 1 of nearly 20 certified fitters in Canada. So now there's 3 of us here in JH that can fit you up!

Live to Ride

Local Ripper Bike Review: Specialized Stumpjumper Pro Carbon

2009-03-15T20:43:00.000-07:00

Here is an interview with our business partner, friend, John Henry Bikes/Innovative Fitness racer, and all around super amateur athlete Matt Young.

Matt is a challenging customer in that he is built big, rides strong and spends a ton of time on his bike. He is not interested in having his bike in the shop a ton, wants to be on the mountain or road bike and is always training for or doing an event. From BC Bike Race, multi day adventure races, multi day rips in the back country, to straight up charging with the boys Matt puts his bikes through some serious abuse.

This year we chose to get Matt into a bike that could do all the race events but that could also allow him to "flip the switch" on the downhill or fun section of our local hills. We had to balance both weight for his races and strength and stiffness for his size and consistent riding.

The Specialized Stumpjumper Pro Carbon was the choice we made because of its new head tube design, stiff-axled DT Swiss wheels and the fact that there was still five inches of travel in a super light weight package.
Here's what Matt had to say about this year's choice of bike:

Let us know what you think and remember,
Live to ride.

Safety Recall - Marzocchi 888

2009-03-12T13:51:00.000-07:00

Marzocchi Model Yeal 2008 888RC3 and 888RC3WC suspension systems manufactured between July 10, 2007 and September 15, 2007

Marzocchi has learned that after a forceful landing, the suspension system can become completely compressed and "bottom out." The piston rod may collapse under the load of the landing. The collapsed piston rod prevents the suspension system from extending and returning to its orginal configuration. The fork spring will remain compressed inside the fork leg. If an unqualified mechanic attempts to repair the suspension system, the fork may extend violently, ejecting the top cap or spring with significant force, resulting in personal injury.

To find out if your fork was manufactured during this period follow this link to the official recall notice.

Live to Ride

Bikamper

2009-03-09T15:47:00.000-07:00

For all you touring fanatics out there and those just starting, we have got in the new Topeak Bikamper tents in! Weighing in at about 3.5 pounds this is the perfect 3 season tent for those looking to pack as light as possible for the adventure. What makes this tent unique is it's use of the bikes own wheels and saddle as the supports. It also can use tubes instead of your bike and wheel so that you can go on day trips away from camp.

Live to Ride

Lighten up your Bike

2009-03-04T11:52:00.000-08:00

The snow has melted , the sun is shinning right onto your bike that has been collecting dust over the winter months and it seems like a great idea to go out for a ride. The first half hour goes well then your huffing and puffing all the way home. Of course you're in perfect shape, it's your bike that is too heavy and slowing you down.

The lighter your bike the lighter your wallet is usually the case, but it doesn't have to be. You can spend thousands of dollars on carbon fiber and titanium parts to save half a pound and still get beaten by John Henry who rides his hybrid commuter to work everyday. Or you could look into affordable ways to shed that extra bike flab.

Tires are heavy pieces of rotating rubber. Saving a small amount of weight in the tire will cause your bike to feel like it has shed more weight than it actually has. This happens because the rotation of the tire actually makes it feel heavier. Ofter over looked are the tubes that hide inside the tire. If you have big heavy tubes and are not riding through rock gardens at high speeds chances are that you're able to scrap the big heavy DH tube for a lighter tube or tubeless system.

If your bike is a do it all commuter machine decked out with a pannier rack, fenders, a lock etc. and your going out on a fitness ride take off the extra weight that will slow you down. The pannier rack in most cases will have to stay on unless it is seatpost mounted but the pannier bags can come off and save you a bunch of weight.

After shedding off some useless extra weight get out and ride. If you still feel slow stop blaming it on the bike!

Tools to Keep You Riding

2009-03-03T11:19:00.000-08:00

Do You Need Help Staying Motivated to Ride Your Bicycle?

Fact: By having guaranteed instruction and times to meet, people are 80% more likely to pursue an activity and stay interested in that activity for longer. You'll be able to knock that motivation problem by signing up for some clinics and courses.

You don't want your hard earned money that you spent on that new bicycle to go to waste. Sign yourself up for a maintenance clinic or a group riding time.

Choose what level you feel comfortable with right now and gain confidence with your bicycle and how to handle its many intricate parts.

At John Henry Bikes you are presented with many options including:

Drop-in maintenance course
Group rides and clubs
Riding clinics through affiliated sponsors
Advanced maintenance courses taught on site
Trail maintenance days
Educational seminars
Popular events

You can LEARN a lot about riding and about yourself by riding.

Roval Wheels Video: the future of wheels

2008-02-06T12:00:00.001-08:00

Specialized have just posted this great video on their Roval wheel sets. Let's you know how to look at wheels and from a product engineers stand point.

Let us know what you think and we will also have some wheels to test this summer so please ask. Coming soon to the shop.

How To Buy A Childrens Bike

2007-12-17T19:03:00.001-08:00

Straight from the CBC and Living Vancouver, our own Willie Henry reviews how to look for a bicycle for your kids. check out Jennifer Burke and the Living Vancouver feature.

2008 Norco Team DH Review

2007-10-27T14:44:00.000-07:00

Big bikes are dead - at least that's what some people would have you believe.

The Norco Team DH is definitely a "big bike" 9" inches of rear suspension, 8" up front, a 64 degree head angle and one chainring.

Now that we have bikes like Specialize Demo 7s, Norco Shores what is the purpose of a dedicated DH sled? Those bikes will handle most of what we see on a regular basis - so why lay out the cash ($5500 + tax) for something that makes riding to the shops hard? That was a question i was asking myself as I rode uphill to the trail head this morning - what had I got myself into?

I have ridden big bikes - I have run through a pair of Specialized Demo 8s, a Specialized Big Hit 3 and a Brodie Devo - so it's not like I didn't know what to expect. However the Team DH is perhaps the ultimate incarnation of the uber-plus DH bike. Maybe it was getting up at 6:20am to make the ride that was accentuating all the downsides to the DH bike.

Once we reached the trailhead and dropped in I was instantly reminded why I was on the Team DH - I had set myself the goal of having a World Cup level downhill bike for this season - and this years Team DH is definitely "all that". With a parts spec that challenges you to try and find somewhere to improve - even for a seasoned bike shop "parts whore" the only parts that I could switch out were those based purely on preference, not performance. Even the small details have been sweated - a Chris King headset, the new SRAM PG 970 downhill specific cassette (solid cassette sprockets so no more bending teeth), even the pedals are the awesome DMR V12 Magnesium. That's right, $100 pedals! Every part is from the brand leader in that area, every single piece is fully thought through.

My first ride on the bike, and I promise a further review after more time in the saddle, I was riding a trail that I had never ridden before, which is always a challenge even on a bike that you know like the back of your hand. I was able to check out the Team DHs abilities on almost every aspect of the riding that it will encounter - steep gnarly rock chutes, gaps to chunder landings, off camber sections; oh and plenty of corners.

Through all of the above I was in control and confident. The bike was stable when it needed to be, but it's light weight (41.75lbs with pedals in a Medium size) means that it is very maneuverable when the speed that it encourages you to carry gets you deeper than you want to be.

I was in tune with the bike almost from the beginning - but just like my awesome Border Collie "Sprocket" it begs to go faster. Getting to open the bike up to high speed is really a treat - and where the bikes slack angles and long wheel base become the key to success. Drifting through loose corners knowing that everything is hooked up is a joy, launching into rock sections, slamming through berms and roosting your way out of them is so sweet that I was literally hooting and hollering.

Man I cannot wait for Garbanzo to open.
Until then, you will see me getting my fix at least once a week all winter long, whether it's lit up with an HID or making the early morning ride happen.

"Boss - I will do my best not to be any later than necessary, but sometimes it may just need to happen. The bike made me do it."

Memorize this line, You will need it.

Long live "big bikes" and long live the Norco Team DH.
-----
Live to ride.
Duncan Mortimer

Minoura VFS Trainer Review

2007-10-08T10:32:00.000-07:00

MINOURA VFS REAR WHEEL TRAINER:

It is that time of year again. You know, when you look out the window mutter some expletive under your breath (or not) about the weather and that piece of equipment that has been collecting dust in the corner of the basement. Ah yes, that old “friend”. The substitute for sunshine and heat.

I have had several years of that very same scenario. Working on my base fitness and trying to maintain some semblance of sanity while sitting at home sweating and thinking that this just doesn’t feel right.

Last year, I got my hands on a new trainer, the Minoura VFS Trainer. The VFS stands for “Variable Fluid System”. In a nutshell it is basically the best of both worlds. Fluid will give you the correct resistance to simulate road conditions while the magnetic will eliminate the “dead spot” that can be associated with fluid. What does it all mean? Real roads feel while staying dry and warm. Nice….

You can stand, sit, and grind with this bad boy and it will just give it right back to you. The harder you push, the more it pushes back. For those of you who attended “Stairway to Purgatory” last year can attest. I like to do those long sessions of simulated climbing. On my old trainer, I had a hard time with this due to the unevenness of the resistance.

This chart shows how high you wattage can go given your speed. The power curve is very linear. No sudden spikes in resistance. This is the closest simulation you can get without electronic assistance.

Setup on the unit was a breeze. One box with all the goodies and tools. The unit was already assembled and needed to just be installed onto the base. One Allen wrench made quick work of that. Better than Ikea….

Once all assembled and my rear wheel QR swapped out for the supplied steel on, I was ready to get the bike mounted. No problems there. A quick centering of the rear wheel via the one time right side adjuster and then a quick tighten on the left crank I was set. Set the pressure for the roller under the wheel and then use the handy foot pedal to lock it into place. Again a onetime adjustment. Nice.

Of all the trainers that I have had in my dungeon, this was the quietest. No banging on the floor from upstairs for disturbing the yoga sessions. I could even turn down the Pete Tong hot mix playing through the MP3 player. Always a plus around the homestead as Erin hears that 4-5 times a week during the off-season.

So after a solid season of beating on this thing like a schoolyard bully looking for lunch money, I can honestly say I am the one without money for the tuna sandwich. Thanks to my trainer….

PROS: Insanely easy setup. One time centering and foot pedal for the roller. 85% prebuilt. Reasonably light. Not overly costly unit.
CONS: Had a small amount of residue one time from the rear unit. Happened only when new and never occurred again.
WARRANTY: Minoura has a 2 year limited warranty on the resistance unit and a 5 year warranty on the frame
PRICE: $379.99 plus tax

What Is Spinning And How To Buy A Trainer

2007-10-08T10:13:00.000-07:00

You have put it off for long enough. Quit being a procrastinator. You can wait no longer. Have you seen the weather? It is not going to get any better friend. Suck it up and get ready for the real season of concentration and calculation. There is no peleton. No drafting. No sandbagging and, definitely no coasting!

For those of you already in the know, you know what I'm talking about so stop reading and get spinning. For those of you wondering how all those people seem to be faster than you when the weather is dry here is your carrot.

Spinning whether by yourself or with a group will allow you to work on various aspects of you cycling that you may need to improve on through the off season while in the "comfort" of the indoors.

Purchasing a home trainer will let you hit it whenever the mood strikes as well as give you the familiarity of your own bike. But how do you choose which is the best? A few things to ponder.

TYPES OF TRAINERS:

REAR WHEEL: For most of the public, the best option is that of a rear wheel device. Something that allows the bike to be mounted via the rear axle and apply the resistance to the tire or rim.
ROLLERS are used for those looking for the extra challenge of balance and to "clean up" their pedal stroke. Not necessarily the best for group sessions as there are no supports. Both wheels are moving as if the rider were outdoors.
STATIONARY MACHINE: These units are what most will see at a fitness facility. Nice units, but usually quite expensive and will not necessarily put you into your proper position on a bike.

So now that we have that down. Let's focus on the best option for all of us. A rear wheel unit will be the most cost effective and portable unit for home. You require no more room than your bike needs. Most higher end units are quite quiet and will last for years. You can spend up to $1000 for the most advanced electronically aided unit, but I will more than likely last for at least 5 years. For most, fluid is the nice way to go. It will give you progressive resistance and a smooth road like feel. Magnetic will generally have a large heavy flywheel which may take a bit to get going but will then give the impression of flat land riding with even the option of the occasional coast (not recommended). A hybrid will give the best of both.

Once you have got your trainer home and have it set up what now? You may not realize that in order to get the most out of the experience it could require some extra motivation. Things like music, videos and specifically formulated sessions will only do so much. The best additions will be things like a Heart Rate Monitor and a cadence equipped computer.

One of the most affordable and useful pieces to the puzzle is a cycling computer with cadence and a rear wheel speed sensor. Most outdoor computers will use front wheel speed sensors so it is obvious why to use a rear one for indoors. Use a wired one as well. The real reason is to eliminate feedback from other computers when in a group session. My recommendation is to look at Kurt Kinetics cycling computer specific to trainers. It will also give you estimated wattages while riding on the trainer. Nice feature for those days that require specific power work.

Cadence is the most important unit when spinning. Try to maintain a cadence of between 80-100 rpms for the majority of your session. Focus on pedal stroke and heart rate as well. A good pedal stroke will make your cadence faster and will not cause sudden jumps in heart rate. Remember, at the end of the day this is for your benefit and fun. Keep it that way. If you have a hard time motivating yourself, join a group session and get into a rhythm of at least once a week of a solid 60 minutes. It will take a couple of weeks to get into the swing and admit to yourself that the rain is staying for a while longer. Try one of the Spin Sessions at John Henry. The early season will be an intro to spinning. Good way to start….

More to come in the next installment, including how to make the ultimate spin room at home and how to stop pedaling blocks.

Jay Irwin
Ride and Spin Session Leader
John Henry Bikes Pedals and Pints

Spin sessions should not be conducted in this manner.

Cycling In The Off-Season

2007-09-27T18:02:00.000-07:00

No it isn’t time to put away the trusty steed just yet and hopefully nobody is even contemplating hibernation for their bicycle this winter. However, there are some definite things to think about when it comes to off-season cycling.

In this article:

Don’t wait for summer: what are you doing next season with your bike.
The building blocks of a successful in-season [2008 summer] start now
Inside training vs outside training
Prepare for the weather

Cycling tends to have a very seasonal feel and many people have yet to realize that preparation will lead to success. Like a runner preparing for a marathon it is imperative to use the fall/winter as a building season. Many people lose the edge they gained through riding in the summer by simply putting the bike away. To combat this problem here are some tips and suggestions that have helped many a John Henry Bikes customer.

Have a destination or plan for your next season: Thinking about what you did this past season with your cycling will really help formulate a plan for your next season. A road trip, an Adventure Race, a triathlon, a bike race or even riding to work regularly are all concrete plans and really help one to maintain some bike fitness as the winter approaches. It is a must to put yourself in the frame of mind where you simply will be using your bike as opposed to the idea of maybe when the weather gets better.
The fitness terminology is Long Slow Distance or LSD. This is the start of getting more mileage on your legs and making sure you are comfortable with time in the saddle. You will maintain a cycling base of fitness through casual and slow rides that have some decent amount of time to them. Have some fun with these workouts as they are truly a huge help when it comes to putting in the harder and sunnier rides in the spring. If you aren’t trying to cram workouts in during the spring you can concentrate on speed, overall fitness goals including weight loss and you will reduce your risk of injury substantially.
Training during the off-season consists of two main types of riding. Indoor and Outdoor. While it is fair to say that the majority of riders are definitely fair-weather riders there shouldn’t be any excuse for stopping cycling.
- Indoor cycling is a very good option for good, strong and quick work-outs as it is consistent, there is never any coasting time and the weather is a non-factor. Spinners are considered the best as you are using your bike, your saddle [those both should be properly fit to you i.e. comfortable] and thus you are continuing to train on your equipment. Overuse of gym equipment style bikes can lead to injuries because the fitting isn’t properly adjusted and the moving from gym bike to your own bike can cause problems. Try to invest in a bike spinner if you can. There are great spin classes you can attend with your own bike and spinner, DVD spin work-outs are a great option and of course just riding to the television is an option also. Flexibility and weather proofing remain the greatest part to indoor cycling. Get ready for spin classes starting as early as October this year!!!!!
- Outdoor cycling should be on everybody’s list to still try and maintain as it is truly the best work-out on a bike. There really isn’t any substitute for the balance and true riding conditions that riding outside offers plus the boredom of riding in one spot is alleviated. Try to pick at least one day a week and head out for your long, slow distance ride. John Henry Bikes gives some tips on preparing for the weather below. It takes a little longer to get ready but once you complete your ride there is a greater sense of accomplishment and the fresh-air is a welcome change for you deprived body. Get outside. It isn’t that bad and the runners are out there all the time. You should be as well.
- Mix and match. Probably the best idea is to mix a little spinner work with a little bit of outside riding so that you maintain consistency and if the weather gets really foul, you have a plan b. A plan b, that is, that doesn’t include just going back to the couch. Try two rides inside and two rides outside per week and then adjust to your schedule and how you are feeling. A minimum of two riding workouts will help build a great base for 2008 summer season.
Prepare yourself for inclement weather. Look, we all know it isn’t going to stay sunny forever and you all know that if you don’t prepare for cold feet and hands then you definitely won’t ride at all. Get some gear that will address the weather and make sure you aren’t leaving yourself an excuse to stop riding. Layer your clothing making sure as to not use cotton and put on a nice waterproof jacket. Your feet and hands will be the areas that need attention the most and there is great neoprene or waterproof options that make the riding that much more comfortable. Put on some fenders and make sure your lights are available and then get ready to be riding year round. Preparation is a key to your successful off-season of riding and the riding is really very fun if you are warm and toasty while out and about.

Riding in the off-season is a necessity if you don’t want to keep starting all over again and it is highly recommended you try to maintain your base throughout. While never a bad idea to cross-train for a few weeks, try to get back to your bike so that early next season you can maximize the weather and get riding the good stuff and longer distances without suffering. Plan, prepare and prosper. Riders get ready for a great off-season of mileage and rosy cheeks!

Live to ride.
Willie Henry
John Henry Bikes
willie@johnhenrybikes.com
604.986.5534.

p.s. If you need the shop to set your bike up with fenders or other winterizing bits just drop down and leave the bikes with our tech-centre and they will get the bike set up.

Norco Technology Explained

2007-09-27T12:46:00.000-07:00

Here are some great articles about the technology that goes into Norco bikes.

Setting Up Your Norco VPS Full Suspension Bike

Hydroforming Explained

What is Maxle?

Cool Stuff Coming Soon From Specialized

2007-08-14T17:08:00.000-07:00

A sneak peak at the new Specialized 2008 Transition as ridden by Tom boonen, quick Step's green jersey winner at this year's Tour de France. Look for 2008 bikes and products in the shop really soon.

Changes to Santa Cruz Bikes For 2008

2007-08-14T17:06:00.000-07:00

Bikes! New Ones! Check 'em out! Trade show season is hauling toward us like an out-of-control freight train, and we're already bracing ourselves for the anticipated outbreak of sore feet, sore backs and hoarse voices. To assist the development of all those signature trade show symptoms, we're going to be introducing three new bikes as well:
V-10 After revolutionizing the downhill race world by mating the seemingly incongruous concepts of bottomless long travel performance with extraordinary pedaling efficiency, the V-10 became the Gold Standard of the DH circuit. For 2008, this no-compromise race machine has undergone further transformation. Thanks to some very careful redesign of the aluminum frame sections and a carbon fiber upper link, the new frame weighs in almost two pounds lighter and offers lower standover than the old one. The suspension has been revised to sit higher in its travel for a livelier ride, resulting in a lighter, tighter package with 254mm of rear wheel travel and razor sharp handling designed to do one thing: cut the fastest, most direct line to the top step of the podium.
Chameleon Following a long run as one of our most beloved jacks-of-all trades, the Chameleon has recently undergone some nip and tuck work. The aluminum frame is still as workhorse solid as ever, with a heavily gusseted head tube region capable of handling the loads of 160mm forks, super-bomber tough seat and chain stays and a new hydroformed top tube. We've added a stealthy new ultra-light eccentric BB and vertical dropouts for easy wheel removal and disc brake use with either gears or set up as a single speed, and we've employed the swank replaceable derailleur hanger from the Heckler. Set it up however you want it's a single speed! An XC hardtail! A jump bike! It slices! It dices! It gets rid of your gambling debts! It plays a mean rhythm section! Well, you get the picture...
Stigmata Santa Cruz, making a cross bike? Is this some kind of joke? Hell no! We are based in Santa Cruz, California, after all, and that implies a winter's worth of mucky run-ups at the Watsonville fairgrounds, sand pits at Fort Ord, and that sketchy off-camber bit at Soquel high school. Cross is part of the landscape here, and we wanted bikes with our name on the tubes to throw over our shoulders between October and January. So we took Easton's new EA6X tubing and came up with a super lean (1300grams for a 54cm frame, with powdercoat), no-compromise (we don't need no steenkin' rack or fender braze-ons), race ready cross frame. It has a low BB and tight geometry, and tons of tire clearance. She carves turns hard enough to leave scorch marks, and we can hardly wait for winter.
So, those are the new offerings, in a nutshell. We are expecting to deliver the Chameleon by the end of September, the Stigmata in October, and the new V-10 by the end of November. They will all be in the new catalogs that we'll be distributing after Eurobike. We are also expecting to have them built into our website Bike Builder by Interbike. Santa Cruz

Argon 18 Bike Review by P&P Club Presidents

2007-08-14T10:35:00.000-07:00

Argon 18 Gallium

ARGON 18 GALLIUM

When I first heard of Argon a few years ago, I initially thought that they were a boutique triathlon specific bike company. The fact is that their owner and principal designer is a former road racer and quite an accomplished one at that. What did attract me to them were a couple of things: they are Canadian, their bikes were light and, that Former Tour de France podium finisher Steve Bauer likes his and uses them for his cycle tours. Good enough for the best Canadian EVER at the tour, good enough for a week-end warrior like me.

I was curious what Gallium was so I did a little research. Gallium as a periodic element is a bit of an unknown. It has various uses from electronics to the ability to melt itself into other metals. I thought that was pretty cool.

Boy was I surprised when that Gallium came to the shop.

My Extra Small frame came in one box with the parts in another. The first thing I did was the old pick up the frame test just to see how light it was. The claimed weight on the site was spot on (995grams!!). Man that makes for a light start to my build up. Initial look at the frame revealed some rather cool finishing touches that I would later realize weren't just for cosmetics. More on that later. The one thing that took some getting used to was the amount of advertising on the frame. By the time I built it up, it was hard to notice all the times the name Argon is on the frame.

Gallium's Headtube

For starters, the headtube has some nice shapes sculpted into the sides for what I suspect allows better airflow and to decrease the weight while adding some stiffness to that area. Argon supplies their own house brand fork which not only does an excellent job soaking up the bumps while still supplying a sufficient amount of stiffness to the front end. There is very little fork chatter when applying the front brakes firmly for emergency stops. Anytime I have had a sub 15 pound bike, they tend to be one of two things, really stinking stiff or sloppy like an overcooked wet noodle. The carbon layout at the bottom bracket provides for an impressive stiffness under hard sprints. Chainstays on my frame were short and allowed for only vertical compliance. Nice touch when you hit the occasional pothole.

Argon's Carbon Seatpost & Specialized Toupe saddle

I went with the ever popular Dura Ace groupo. It is always hard to find anything wrong with what the BIG S churns out. Wheels were Mavic Ksyrium ES wrapped with Michelin Pro Race 2 tires. Argon supplied their own in-house carbon seatpost which was quite light and had a very nice offset to it. I went for a Specialized Toupe carbon saddle with ti rails. By the way, if you are looking for a new saddle, I would highly recommend it. I have rode on for the last 2 years and have spent over 7000 kms on it. Man is it comfortable. Handlebar is the new FSA K-Force shallow drop carbon handlebar. Light and has a traditional drop. Great for small hands. Total bike with pedals weighs in just below 15lbs with bottle cages and computer. Now that's a light bike.

Fit is the most important thing when getting a new bike and even though I used to fit custom road bike for professional road racers and triathletes in the past, I wasn't sure that this bike would fit within my very specific fitting needs. This was the first time I had gone to a bike so small. What you need to take into consideration is the toptube length. Argon has a system called AFS. This essentially means that one should make sure that the horizontal measurement of the bicycle is factored into the overall fit of the bike. It is probably the most important measurement as it will affect all riding characteristics of the bike.

Climbing on this bike is a dream. No flex laterally for standing sessions and just enough vertical flex for some of the longer seated sessions up Seymour. Coming back down the mountain at over 80km/hr, the bike handles excellently and corners like it is on rails. I can easily lay the bike over on its side and just point it around a tight 180 degree turn with the knowledge that it will hold, stomp on the pedals out of the apex and know I can get it back up to speed quick enough to run out of gears and back into the tuck.

Argon has done an excellent job making a bike that will not only make the transition from full on race bike to Ironman Tribike to week-end warrior. Job well done.

This is one bike that's staying in the stable for quite a while.

Check out Argon's website for all their technical info. It is worth a read into all their reasons for the design of their bikes. Several models to choose from to fit the needs of all.

www.argon18bike.com

PROS: light,light, light, quick, responsive, stiff AND compliant?! Euro look with all the graphics (I love the Euro look. You may not)
CONS: non that come to mind

More pictures are available here.

Jay Irwin.
Ride Leader, JH Road Crew.
LIVE TO RIDE (and if you do, try it on an ARGON18!)

Argon 18 Helium Frame

ARGON 18 HELIUM

What a ride, sweet as can be! I've been riding this bike for the last month and am very impressed with what little time taken to get this bike dialled in to the way I like to ride. You can ride forever on this road bike, with a comfort level at 10/10 and to feel the power going into your riding being completely transferred to the pedals and to the road is super satisfying. This bike makes it easy to go!

The Argon 18 Helium, defines a balance between a performance bike and a comfortable ride. Riding the roads of the lower mainland, you will not even notice you aren't riding on freshly paved streets.

I chose the black raw carbon frame, and so thrilled with my super light, shiny frame! The unique design and fantastic colours make it easy to feel super confident when on the road.

Of the bikes I have ridden, it certainly ranks on top!

Erin Irwin